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Monday 26 August 2019

TREKKIDEA ... Amalfi - Sorrento (and maybe Capri) April 2020

In one of his latest Blogs, Giovanni Visetti outlines his plans for a 7 day trek to be held in April 2020.
The probable start date would be either Friday 17th or Saturday 18th and each day's hike would cover approximately 20km. 
As highlighted in the map below (a rough sketch, just to give everyone an idea), the trek commences with three circuits (or almost) from Agerola, the fourth day is the crossing from the Amalfi Coast to the Sorrento Peninsula, and over the last 3 days there will definitely be hikes to Punta Campanella, San Costanzo and Jeranto, as well as a circuit from Sant 'Agata including the  Sirenuse Trail. If the weather permits, the last day would be  on the island of Capri. The order of the excursions in the above two  areas will be decided virtually  last minute, based on the weather conditions; the only "obligatory" excursion is the Agerola (Bomerano) - Colli San Pietro, on the fourth day.

Here is a summary of the itineraries, although these may change slightly:
Day 1-3: 3 loops from Agerola, dates to choose based on weather conditions
A: Agerola - Amalfi or Pogerola: ... Acquolella, Fica Noce, Pontone, RNO, Ferriera - Pogerola via Amalfi or Tavernate (18-20km, possible dinner + private transfer upon return)
B: tunnel - Mustaculo viewpoint - S. Maria Monti - Monte Carro - Cervigliano north - Acqua Fredda - Palommelle - Crocella - Capo Muro - Tre Calli - Bomerano (possible Catiello ascent) (18-20km)
B1: (shorter, but more challenging than B) - ascent to Crocella - CAI 329e Catiello north - Catiello peak - Capo Muro - Tre Calli - Bomerano
C: tour Faito: Macello (2km from Bomerano), Crocella, Palmentiello, Castellone, Cerasuolo, Molare, Conocchia, forest, Casino di Paipo, Bomerano (20-22km)
Day 4:
D: Bomerano - Path of the Gods - Nocelle - Forestale - S. M. Castello -  Monte Comune - M. Vico Alvano - Colli San Pietro (19km, choice between Nocelle and Capodacqua via Montepertuso and Dragone)
Day 5-6:
E: Sant'Agata - Termini - Campanella - San Costanzo - Nerano - Jeranto - Penna - Nerano (return by SITA bus) (18-20km)
F: Sirenuse from Sant’Agata + countryside hike (18-20km)
Day 7 (possible extra):
G: tour of the island of Capri including Guardia, Migliera, Cocuzzo, Solaro, Anginola, Scala Fenicia, Arco Naturale, ... (20-22km)



Conditions and recommendations are as per previous editions:
- participation is completely free; costs and reservations for transport, board and lodging and any other expenses are yours to cover and arrange;
- it is of fundamental importance to be absolutely independent and self-sufficient ... no type of guide or assistance is provided;
- those who want to take part must be able to walk at least 20km a day with over 1,000m of elevation gain;
- the paths have varied and often rugged surfaces, some steep climbs and descents, many steps and short exposed sections and some are classified as difficult or EE.
To the above recommendations, courtesy of Giovanni, I would add another: punctuality. It is no good turning up even 1 minute late at the departure point. Nobody will be there.
This is the plan at the moment, although there may be changes if natural events or fires, (hopefully not), affect the proposed routes. In case of unfavourable weather conditions, excursions may be shortened, varied or even canceled altogether.
I personally have participated in several of Giovanni's treks in years gone by, not necessarily doing all 7 days, but choosing the itineraries most suited to my level of fitness or preferences (I am not keen on steep loose-stoned descents...). I can highly recommend them, however do not underestimate the level of fitness required. The pace can be pretty brisk at times for the average walker and it really is essential to be completely self-sufficient.

nb all but last photo, courtesy of Giovanni Visetti

Monday 17 June 2019

Massa Lubrense - the state of trails

I hate having to be negative, however unfortunately, and  not for the first time,  I have to have a  rant about the state of the trails in  Massa Lubrense.  I do so this time on the back of a blog recently published by Giovanni Visetti, ironically (or rather sarcastically) entitled "The perfect maintenance of the hiking trails of Massa Lubrense".
Whilst I can just about accept a certain lack of maintenance over the winter months when there are not so many hikers out and about, and rain and high winds can cause situations to change  from one moment to the next, I really do not feel that there is any excuse at all for the present state of affairs, evident to all, and this at the very height of the hiking season.
The photos that probably best illustrate this sorry situation (just 2 of many possible examples) are these:
- the first is the gazebo at the foot of the steps leading up to Monte San Costanzo which is a path trodden by many, locals and tourists alike. This blew over in gales 7 months ago. Yes, 7 months ago! To leave the gazebo lying there for so long is frankly just shoddy, independently from being an eyesore
- the second is again on the path towards San Costanzo, but there are many other places where  fallen trunks litter the paths , hampering or entirely blocking transit.

We were told that tens of thousands of euros  had been assigned to the maintenance of the trails and the improvement of the signage, in recognition of the growing importance of trekking here.
What they forgot to say was that this included the roadsides which apparently  is where most of the money has been spent, and ridiculous amounts of it too and with pretty scarse results.
We have even been told (in spite of the evidence) that the paths are clear and perfectly viable. I would invite some of these people to put on their trainers and come along to see for themselves.
Since Giovanni published his Blog, the "scandal" of the paths has hit the local press also reaching  the ears of the local "Opposition"  who, in true opposition style, have jumped on the bandwagon to express their disdain and ask a few pertinent questions.
It will be interesting to see if this jogs the local Authorities into action, or whether it will end up once again being left until some exasperated group of volunteers does the job for them.
That is all well and good (and maybe that is what they are hoping for), but you have to wonder whether it might be time that they start practicing a little more of what they preach. 
Oh, and whilst we are at it, how come the much publicised new Tourist Office in the centre of Sant'Agata, opened less than 2 weeks ago with great municipal trumpet sounding, has already closed its doors? Rumour has it that they hadn't realised that it would be a little too hot in there under the summer sun, so are now having to find a way to ventilate it! I give up..

Wednesday 6 March 2019

The Path of the Gods and sensible hiking.

All of a sudden it feels like springtime. The sun has come out, temperatures are rising and  Sorrento is slowly emerging from hibernation ready for the new season and its accompanying invasion of tourists.
Over the past couple of years, anyone who lives here will have noticed the sharp increase in visitors. The reasons are manifold, not the least the impact of low cost airlines, Airbnb and relatively cheap alcohol. The fact that we  have Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, Capri and the Amalfi Coast on our doorstep no doubt helps!
There are also far more "hikers" walking our paths. 
I say "hikers" because unfortunately  the vast majority are not true hikers at all, but one-off walkers and all here for the same reason: The Path of the Gods.  Second of Trip Advisor's Top Attractions of the Amalfi Coast, it has become  The  Thing To Do.
If you have a look at Trip Advisor and Viator there are numerous guided  tours on sale covering a range of prices and services. what is disconcerting is that many of them do not think to warn potential customers of the nature of this trail and the need for appropriate footwear and a strong head for heights, often rating the walk as easy to moderate.To do Viator justice, in its covering description of the walk, they do mention both the sheer drops and the need for appropriate walking shoes, but the people actually offering these tours generally miss this out. In fact on Viator, of all the tours on sale, just one contained this information. Trip Advisor fared a little better. Strangely enough they all had "Entry/Admission" to the Path as included.. nice one considering that it is free!
A couple of weeks ago we decided to go there for our Sunday hike, thinking that, being February and pretty cold,  we might be lucky and have it to ourselves.  We didn't, although  in all honesty I can't say that it was crowded. There were however far more people than I had expected, the majority  evidently not regular walkers . A lot of photographs were being taken, including selfies, and that is fine and perfectly acceptable, however apart from blocking the path  until they were satisfied with the shot, they would then amble along at snail's pace, a bit like Sunday drivers! I dread to think what it will be like in a few weeks' time and over the coming months. If the Amalfi Coast has problems with traffic congestion, The Path is no better.
More worrying was the fact that many were  wearing shoes  more suited to city pavements than a rough hiking trail. 
And this brings me on to the second point of this blog. Two days ago the local press reported  two separate emergencies on our trails. The first regarded a couple who had got lost up in the hills behind Agerola. The second referred to a minor injury along the Path of the Gods. Not wanting to be pessimistic,  I am sure that there will be many more this summer, the majority of which will be due to the incompetency of the individual "hiker" who ventures forth unprepared and poorly equipped. After all, if the very people selling hikes omit basic and essential information, what hope have we? 
Accidents can happen, especially on the kind of terrain that we have here. However wearing ballerina shoes or flip-flops is  tempting fate, as is staring into the screen of a phone as you are  walking along the trail or stepping to the  edge of a precipice to get a better shot. If you are venturing into unknown territory, take a map, let people know where you are going,
or even better hire one of our excellent local guides, rather than tempting fate and ending up on the front page of Positano News!


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